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ITINERARIES OF PENINSULA SORRENTINA |
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CAMPI FLEGREI |
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ARTISTIC AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL GOODS |
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The artistic tradition
of the three islands of Gulf of Naples has very deep roots,
dating-back to millenniums before Christ's birth, and it can satisfy
art keens of every period, from the middle ages era, to contemporary
art, as well as applied arts. The territory offers the possibility
to admire different artistic expressions, such as for example: Roman
villas, churches of every epoch, museums, paintings, reliquary busts,
altars, and everything that was located in a certain church or
building, from ten, one hundred, or one thousand years now, has
become the keeper of traditions, secrets and legends characterising
all populations. This is a tour leading through the city halls of
the neapolitan islands, searching for an artistic - historical
patrimony wich conceals hidden secrets. |
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Churches and villas
with one more legend... wondering about the nine islands city halls
The trip starts from the Port of Marina Grande of Procida, to reach
Terra Murata at the slopes of Piazza dei Martiri, rises la
Chiesa
della Madonna delle Grazie (Church of the Madonna of Graces) built
on 1679, during the baroque period, with Greek cross plant with
three apsidal arms and a dome with octagonal drum. The main point is
the painting, of uncertain dating, showing the Madonna delle Grazie.
The legend tells about a big miracle this Madonna made, and that
refers to the assault suffered by a fisherman by a big sea cetacean
without being killed. When the cetacean and its skin were captured,
they were kept inside the Sanctuary, to remember the Virgin. Leaving
Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie
it is possible to reach the upper part of Terra Murata, to visit the
Benedict's Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo, a real art and culture
case, founded on 1026, but which probably rises on an ancient
religious complex of the Vth-VIth century. |
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In the church, with a
basilican plant divided into three naves and seventeen altars.
Particularly interesting is the lacunar of the nave dating back to
the XVIIth
century, and realised in wood and pure gold. At the centre of it
there is the most impressive painting of the church: Saint Michael
defeating Satan attributed to the painter Luca Giordano (1634-1705).
The whole building develops on two levels: the church and the abbey
complex.
On the crypt altar there is a skull and a little coffin of the
XVIIIth century. The huge ossuary, wrapped up by a halo of mystery
leads from the church to the sea for more than 70 meters. The
ossuary is made of bone and ashes cumulated down there over the
centuries, and the bodies were also thrown there without a logical
sense.
Outside the abbacy your eye will be caught by the former Royal
Palace, which after the year 1815, at first became a military
college, and then between 1830 and 1831, became a penitentiary under
king Ferdinand IInd the Bourbon.
Coming down from Terra Murata, we meet Marina Corricella, a little
fishermen's harbour. For those tourists who like animals, we propose
a stop
to the VIIth century church of Sant'Antonio Abate, with a single
nave and side chapels. |
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The VIIIth century
greater altar is of very important relevance, being elegantly inlaid
with polychromatic marbles. The same goes for the balaustrade
standing in front of it, chiselled with pillarss decorated in relief,
as well as some paintings by Francesco Solimena. In ancient times
Procida islanders, during "Sant'Antuone" celebrations, used to bring
in procession, around the church, their own animals in order to get
them blessed and to protect them from epidemics. We suggest to all
women still searching for a husband to have a stop in Lavadera
street, at Sant'Antonio da Padova church, with a single nave plant
and
side chapels. Over the main altar, there is a painting of the XVIIth
century representing Saint Anthony. Inside the church there is a
statue of San Pasquale Baylon, in front to wich, according to
Procida island women's tales, inancient time young women searching
for a husband used to go there. This Saint is considered the "spinsters
protector" still now. |
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From the tourist harbour of Marina Corricella is possible to reach
the little Vivara island that preserves many finds of its first
inhabitants, brought back to light as a consequence of the many
excavations carried-out on the islands. From that moment more
Mycenaean finds were discovered, but there were also finds of
native, as an evidence that on the island there were permanent
dwellers. Among the above mentioned finds there are standard size
vases, with or without handles, of standard or big dimensions, and
also fragments of other objects of daily use.
Let's move from Procida to Ischia Harbour, with its natural landing
located inside a volcanic crater, dating back to on the IVth century
B.C., and made by will of Ferdinand IInd the Bourbon. This landing
was made by opening a channel in the rocks. In Piazza del Redentore
it is possibile to visit the neo classic chiesa di Santa Maria di
PortoSalvo. The facade is on two levels, decorated from outside with
a Greek peristyle. The inside part has a latin cross plant, and it
keeps three big paintings, by Neapolitan painters, of the XIVth
century, located above the three altars. |
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From the Harbour let's
now continue the tour to get to Ischia Ponte. This is an old
maritime suburb, whose name derives from the Bridge Alfonso from
Aragon decided to
build, in order to connect the village to the tuffaceous islet,
where now there is the Castello Aragonese, a conglomerate of
buildings of different ages. On the path leading to the castle's
top, at half of the climb, there is the Cappellina, worthy to be
visisted. This Chapel is dug-out in live stone and dedicated to San
Giovanni Giuseppe della Croce (1654-1734), the only one saint who
was born in Ischia. It is possible to reach the castle by walking
through the gallery Alfonso the Ist from Aragon dug-out around the
year 1447, or by taking a modern lift. On the top of the rock there
is the XVIIth century Chiesa dell'lmmacolata with a Greek cross
plant.
On its longer axle there is a quadrangular space, used as a
presbytery, together with another space used as a pronaus. The
Convento delle Clarisse, an abandoned convent dated on XVIth century,
is a very fascinating place. |
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The convent was abandoned after the monasteries' suppression occured
in the XIXth century . The building expands like an elevated
rectangular block, enriched with rectangular windows distribution.
Here legend and tradition meet, each other since in the cellars of
the church it is possible to visit the gruesome nun's cemetery,
where it is also possible to see the nun's ossuary who instead of
being buried, once died, they were just sat on brickwork chairs, the
so called scolatoi (the drainers). You can't miss to visit the
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Libera where a fresco, of particular
artistic interest and laying under another fresco has been recently
found and restored. At the castle top it is possible to run into old
ruins of the ancient Cattedrale dedicata all'Assunta that got bombed
on 1809. The building of this cathedral dates back the year 1300
when Geronda inhabitatnts, was the ancient name of the Ischia island,
decided to displace where the castle is located, owing to of the
Epomeo mountain erutption. The cathedral stretches on two floors:
the upper church and the crypt. On the year 1503 at the end of the
left nave altar of the church, was celebrated the wedding between Ferrante d'Avalos and
Victoria Colonna. The maior altar was moved
into the actual cathedral after the destruction. |
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The last stop is the Church of San Pietro a Pantaniello, with its
characteristic hexagonal plant, attributed to the architect Iacopo
Barozzi, called the Vignola (1507-1573). Once at Ischia Ponte it is
impossible to miss the visit of the actual cathedral, the Chiesa
dell'Assunta, which dates back to the XIIth century, and which was
rebuilt using baroque shapes. Inside the church there are valuable
artworks, such as a baptismal fountain of the XIVth century, with a
thub dating - back to the late Renaissance period, sustained by
three Caryatids, and a wooden cross of the XIIIth century. Annexed
to the church there are also the Storiche Prigioni (Historical
Prisons),
where Luigi Settembrini, Carlo Poerio and Silvio Spaventa got
prisoned. In Casamicciola there is a "little jewel" of the XIXth
century architecture, which is the Church of Santa Maria delle
Grazie, with basilical plant, divided into three naves, with central
sail lunette vault and little cross vaults in the central naves. |
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After Casamicciola let's then reach Lacco Ameno, landing point of
Greek peasants. In this place, during a very important
archaeological excavation Greek pieces of very high value were
brought to light, as the famous coppa di Nestore (Nestore's Cup),
now at the Museo di Villa Arbusto, bringing an epigram in three
verses, considered as the most ancient Greek poetic text,
contemporary to Omero's verses. Also Christians have left here their
cults and traces. One of the first religious community was born
where now there is the Church of Santa Restituta, where in the
ancient Rome there was a big cistern, and on that area between the
IVth and the Vth century A.C. was built
early Christian Basilica. The actual facade style is neo-classic and
dates-back to 1910. Inside this basilica some paintings of the
nineteenth century by Ferdinando Mastroianni (not. 1885), represent
Santa Restituta's martyr scenes. From Lacco we reach Forio d'lschia.
In this place there are many artistic evidences, starting from the
Church of Santa Maria di Loreto, dating back to the beginnings of
the XIVth century. Here we find many artworks, as for example the
sixteenth century table, showing the Madonna di Loreto, by the
Neapolitan painter Decio Tramontano (second half of the XVIIIth
century). |
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Near the City Hall we find the real symbol of the Ischia island
inhabitants, the Church of Santa Maria del Soccorso, whose entrance
is decorated with polychromatic porcelaine, and is rich of ex votes
of fishermen made when escaping from storms. Then we get to the
highest City Hall of the island, Serrara Fontana, at Epomeo Mountain slopes. At the Mountain top there is the fifteenth century
church of
San Nicola. Annexed to the church there is an hermitage dug-out in
the tufo, with caves, rooms and burrows, in operation of the
hermitage. The last City Hall to be visited is Barano. It is in
Piazza San Rocco, which is surrounded by a wonderful landscape that
find the Parrocchia di San Giorgio, for which there is a legal act
certifying there was a chapel in this place, since 1300. Among the
artworks inside the church there are four altars, one of these
altars was a gift by Ferdinand the IInd, and a crucifix of 1300. Now
lets' get to Capri, an island that offers one of the most
fascinating itinerary, leading to the discovery of ancient villas.
At the beginning those villas were twelve, and August and Tiberio
wanted them to be built in this area. |
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Each villa, according to the tradition was dedicated to an Olympus
god. The fame of the two island towns, Capri and Anacapri
is to be
attributed to Roman Emperors. Palazzo a Mare, a villa built as a
wish of the emperor august, it's easy to reach from Porto di Marina
Grande. At the beginings this villa occupied the vast area
streatching from Bevaro point, to the beach called Bagni di Tiberio, placing itself with various nuclei between the sea and the
promontuory. Maybe this villa was a typical open Roman villa, with
little scattered rooms, and with a big park. Now the ruins are the
only things left to be visited by tourists: a very big slope wall,
where there is a house, an exedra - nynphaea, and a little maritime
basin, dated - back to the Emperor August's age, with elements of
Emperor Tiberio's age. We suggest you to take the second stop at
Villa San Michele, in Anacapri, reachable wheather from the famous
Scala Fenicia, or by coming back to Marina Grande harbour,
continuing after the famous piazzetta till Piazza Vittoria, where
you will find indications. Villa San Michele rises near a little
chapel, dedicated to San Michele Arcangelo, and it looks like a
building rising on the ruins of an ancient imperial villa. Actually
this villa preserves a sober and elegant style, and inside it, we
find the Fondazione Axel Munthe. |
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Among the exposed finds, there are artworks of Roman, Etrurian, and
Egyptian ages. Axel Munthe, who was a writer, made those old
buildings remains restored, which were probably a Roman rest station
at the end of the Scala Fenicia. Remains of another building of
Tiberian age, are exposed at Villa Damecuta. It is quite difficult
to recognise the originary extension of this building, which was
brought to light during the excavations carried-out between 1937 and
1948. Of the original building now we have just some structures
arranged on the brow of the rocky ridge, characterised by powerful
buildings with arces. Like other imperial villas of the island, also
this one had to proliferate of marble floors, decorations and
artworks. Among the few remains, the ambulatio lodge, sustained by
two pillars and arcs, is of particolar interest. Villa Gramola, another archaeologic site probably was a kind of appendix of
Villa Damecuta. We suggest you to move on the opposite side of the island
to reach the wonderful Villa Jovis. This is the main residence of
Emperor Tiberio, dating back to the Ist century a.c., and still at
present this villa allows visitors watch the fascinating and
delightful landscapes that probably stroke very much the Emperor,
who decided this place had to become his residence. |
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From Villa Jovis it is possible to have a look at the so called
Salto di Tiberio, a viewpoint at the edge of a rocky precipice,
where, according to the legend, the Emperor's enemies were killed by
being thrown in the void, after being also tortured. At present we
only have the wall naked structures, because of removals occurred
mostly in the XVI I Ith century, but some remains are still visible:
a floor in African marble, covering the area on the highest altar of
the Church of Santo Stefano, and there is another floor in the room
of Reggia di Capodimonte in Naples. In order to visit the villa we
suggest you to buy a planimetry. On the villa highest point, let's
make a short stop at the little Chiesa di Santa Maria del Soccorso,
of the XVIIIth century. Palazzo a Mare, Villa Damecuta and Villa
Jovis, are at different latitudes, so as to form a sort of bar
occupying the two edges and the central part of the island, with a
wide view of the Gulf of Naples, from Campanella point to
Ischia. |
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