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ITINERARIES OF PENINSULA SORRENTINA |
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| ITINERARIES OF
CAMPI FLEGREI |
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ARTISTIC AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL GOODS |
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Pozzuoli,
archaeological area by excellence, together with Cuma,
was the most ancient centre of the Campi Flegrei. It was
founded during the VIth century A.C., by a colony of Greek exiles
coming from Samo, who founded an inhabited centre in the Rione
Terra, which was named Dicearchia, which means "fair government",
in polemic opposition to the government of their own city dominated
by the tyrant Policrate. |
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During the Roman epoch
it was called Puteoli (little wells), and became the most
important commercial port in Rome, and during the IInd
century, some other important public buildings were built in the
city, such as:
thermal baths, fountains, ninfei, temples, stadiums and markets.
In the heart of the city there is the Anfiteatro Flavio (amphitheatre
Flavio) (the third biggest theatre in Italy, it can
contain up to 20.000 spectators), dating-back at the end of the IInd
century B.C., epoch of Vespasiano, built in opus reticulatum,
where the gladiator's games took place. Currently the bearing
structure and the undergrounds are still preserved. The undergrounds
were built with tiles, and had three corridors, are very charming
elements and of particular archaeological interest. In one of these
spaces, on 1689, it was built a chapel dedicated to St. Gennaro
where, according to the tradition, the Saint and its companions got
exposed to wild beasts, without being attached. At Nerone's
epoch, it was built the Anfiteatro Minore (the smaller
amphitheatre), built with opus incertum. Walking through Via
Terracciano, there are some ruins of an ancient thermal building,
the Tempio di Nettuno (Neptune's Temple). |
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The Ninfeo di Diana
(a place where nymphs used to go), was probably connected to the
near thermal baths. Of this last building we can still visit the
circular base, and part of the elevated base. From Piazza Capomazza,
through Via Pergolesi, it is possible to reach the Tempio di
Serapide (Serapide's Temple), (also called Serapeo),
a good place where it's possible to relive the magnificence of the
Roman civilization of Pozzuoli. The temple is named
after the statue of the Egyptian god Serapide, but actually
this area was the ancient Macellum, which was the ancient
market annexed to the harbour area. The Macellum was built
during the epoch of the Flavi and has a great archaeological
importance. The reading of remains allows to understand that it was
constituted of a quadrilateral area surrounded by a portico with
granite or cipolin columns, with trading premises, public baths and
shops and, in the centre, a circular tempietto (little
temple). |
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This is a place of
great charm, considering that the bradyseism phenomenon made the
building ruins sink and then resurface from waters, whose reached
levels are visible by the signs left on the columns (for this very
reason the temple is called "bradyseism thermometer").
But the heart of Pozzuoli is the Rione Terra, a spur
of Rock stretched out in the Gulf of Naples where, according
to Greek-Roman historiography, Greek exiled ariived in this area and
founded Dicearchia. At the end of the Ist century B.C., this place
became a Roman colony and, for this reason, it was arranged with an
urbanistic plant with the typical subdivision in hinges and decumani
(one of the two main road axes). During the IVth century A.C., the
increasing phenomenon of bradyseism submerged the harbour works, and
marked the final decline of the city. The following centuries have
witnessed the building - up of new structures, overlapping the
ancient ones, in this way, the ancient road map got lost. After a
bradysismic crisis the whole Rione Terra was evacuated on
March of 1970 but, thanks to an excavation campaign, the ancient
structures of the city were brought to light, and today it is
possible to visit about four thousand squared meters of the ancient
Roman city, with evident traces of a hinge and of a decumano (one of
the two main road axes). The entry is a simple front door in
Largo Sedile di Porto, but once inside you will have the
opportunity to see the taverns, the baker's shop with wheat
millstones, the little fishermen's residences, and everything that
made this place a real suburb. |
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Always at Rione Terra, on the higher part, there is a very
interesting evidence: the Duomo of Pozzuoli, built on an
ancient temple, which during the Vth, VIth centuries was
turned into a Christian church. Up to 1631 the building
generally preserved the original structure of the Roman temple,
when the works for the Baroque transformation started, on a project
by Cosimo Fanzago (1591-1678) and Bartholomew Picchiatti
(? - 1643). On 1964 there was a fire that destroyed the Baroque
restoration, revealing the structure of a Roman temple called
Tempio di Augusto (August's Temple), a rare example of
august classicism, and whose excavations allow to recognize all its
elements: the high podium incorporating the remains of a temple
which rose in this place and made in tuff, dating-back at the
Samnite age (II sec. AC), the deep pronaos, the cell where semi
pillars are set, up to the frame and to the pediment. There were
many paintings that escaped the fire, paintings such as of
Artemisia Gentileschi (1597-1652 ca.), Giovanni Lanfranco
(1582-1647). Massimo Stanzione (1585 ca. - 1658 about), etc...,
and they are now preserved to the National Museum of St. Martino. |
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The Duomo also
houses the grave of G. B. Pergolesi, the famous musician born
to Iesi on 1710, and dead in Pozzuoli on 1736. Continuing on
the Domiziana, there is the possibility to enjoy the view of the
Lake of Averno, with the sea and the Aragonese castle of Baia.
Another important stop for an archaeological tour is Baia,
one of the residential centers par excellence, whose name derives
from the place where Baios, a helmsman of Ulysses got
buried. Baia includes the vast area between the promontory
of Miseno and the Lake of Lucrino. Baia can be
defined the most mundane and rich station of the empire, it could be
defined as the Blue Coast of the antiquity. At present the greater
part of the wonderful buildings of Baia are under the sea,
Sea Archaeological Park, where it is still possible to see the
remains of the imposing constructions and the precious floor mosaics.
Those remains are really worthy to be visited, possibly with special
boats with a glass floor, or it is also possible to visit those
remains, making diving, with special equipment.
The Archaeological Park is a wonderful Roman imperial
complex (Ist - IVth century AC), stretching-out on the impending
soipe of the inhabited area. |
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Among the different sections that constitute the enchanting park
(Villa of the Ambulatio, magnificent example of
late-republican villa, the sector of Sosandra,
probably with the lodgings for thermal baths the clients the
sector of Venus, entirely occupied by thermal buildings) let's
give a particular attention to the temple improperly called
Temple of Mercury, an enormous dome thermal classroom, which
still charms people with the unreal atmosphere characterizing the
inside of the structure invaded by water. Plasters, mosaics,
paintings are well preserved in many vain of the building complexes
of the park. It has been thought that the whole complex was
part of the imperial palcitium of Baia, with its very known
springs. Worthy of note are also the rests of the Temple of Diana
and the Temple of Venus. Bacoli was another
residential center that has characterized the region baiana (in
Baia and suburbs) during the Roman age. At the beginning of the
inhabited area there is Via Agrippina, which takes its name after
the so-called Sepolcro di Agrippina, mother of Nerone,
even if those remains belong to a cavea of a small Odeon, a little
theater for concerts, of a Roman maritime villa. |
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As an evidence of the ancient waterwork of the area, there are the
Cento Camerelle (One hundred Little Rooms), a plant of
water tanks of one of the most ancient villas baiane,
Quintu Hortensius, datable to the Ist century A.C. Southwards in
the inhabited, there are the ruins of one of the most monumental
Roman cisterns, the Piscina Mirabilis, whose vault leans on
48 quadrangular pillars prepared on four raws to form five aisles,
similar to those of an underground cathedral. From Bacoli we
reach Miseno that takes its name after the mythical trumpeter
of Enea drowned in these waters and buried here. Of Roman
origin, it has always had a military character up to the Vth century
when it lost its strategic and defensive role. On Via del Faro there
is the best preserved monument of the ancient Misenum, a
complex destined to the cult of the emperor, probably the Templum
Augusti. Presumably also the Foro of Misenum should be in
this place, together with main public buildings. The temple,
dating-back to the IInd century A.C. is today partly sunk because of
the bradyseism effect. The central space is the votive chapel, made
with a rectangular cell, whose walls are in grid and with an apse on
the back wall. It was possible to enter there though a marble
staircase flanked by the statues of Venus and of the emperor
Nerva. |
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Currently visits are not permitted, but a lot of statues
rediscovered during excavations, are now preserved at the
Archaeological Museum by the Baia Aragonese Castle. At the foot
of Monte Miseno, near the beach of Miliscola, there is
the cave of Dragonara, a big cistern with five aisles, meant
to supply water for those ships that went under the fleet. Always
near the Cave of Dragonara, the delicious parish church of
St. Sossio rises, where on its entry staircase, there are
preserved some marble remains coming from the Roman Harbour. Near
the Dragonara Cave, there are a series of spaces, dugout in
the tuff, pertinent to a villa, probably the villa of
Lucullo, where there are walls of crushed crock (cocciopesto),
and structures in opera vittata, grid and bricks. Crossing Via
Domiziana we reach Cuma, one of the most ancient Greek
colonies, dating-back to the half of the VIIIth century B.C. Other
remains of the Greek period are the finds of fortifications on the
hill of the acropolis, datingback to the Vth century B.C. The
excavations carried-out in this archaeological center par excellence
have brought to light, in the oriental part, different buildings,
like the Foro, the Temple Capitolino and the most
evocative monument of Cuma: the Antro della Sibilla Cumana,
dug-out in its more ancient part, from Greeks in the VIth- Vth
century B.C. and today it is a long corridor divided into section
with many trapezoidal arcs, cut in the tufo and illuminated by six
side openings, leading to a final arched space. Very accurate
studies have established that this was a thermal plant used as
thermal space, and then used, during the Christian age as a cemetery
area. |
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To the right of the entry of the Antro della Sibilla, there
is the Roman Crypt which cutting the hill of Cuma
connected the low city with the harbour. This is part of the complex
of works of military road maps that Agrippa wanted to build, around
the 37 B.C. Always in the acropolis, the Temple of Apollo is
very important, it was rebuilt in the first imperial age on the spot
of an ancient sanctuary of Greek or Samnit age, even if the legend
tells it was built by Dedalo, who arrived here at the end of
his wonderful flight from Creta. Currently there are the remains of
the floor, of the colonnade and of the quadrangular pillars '53 that
divided the cell at the center of the temple. On the floor
there are some rectangular openings that are burial sitches, dug by
the Vth century B.C. when the temple was turned into the
Christian basilica. |
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