I stayed in Sorrento May 2006 for a week and would highly recommend it as a perfect base for exploring the area. The Amalfi Coast towns, Capri, Herculaneum, Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii were all reached easily by public transportation. The weather was phenomenal. Add the food and wines of the region and let me tell you - it's paradise. I'm offering a few "off the beaten track" experiences that came spontaneously during my exploration of this fascinating part of the world that truly added to my memories.
The 15th century cathedral (Duomo) of Sorrento is spectacular (as are all the cathedrals in Italy with their marble and frescos) but the marvelous wooden inlay panels at the entry and throughout the sanctuary depicting the 15 Stages of the Cross make it even more special. Also, the wooden choir section behind the altar with it's marvelous intarsia created by local Sorrento craftsmen is phenomenal. Combine this first with a visit to the Museottega Della Tarsialignea right down the street on Via S. Nicola, an outstanding gem of a museum dedicated to the local history of the wood inlay masters. It is a must-see in conjunction with the Duomo to truly appreciate the wood inlay sold in every other tourist shop.
Some of my most memorable vacation moments were hiking the hills of the Amalfi Coast:
By all means, take the bus from Capri up to Anacapri - a fantastic experience - but take the less traveled back country path/steps back down through lemon groves. Pick up the "Fenician Staircase" in Anacapri at the end of Via San Michele after passing Villa San Michele and follow it all the way back down to the Marina Grande. These steps were built by the Greeks in the 8th century B.C. - it was the only access to the sea or the village of Anacapri until 1877 when the current road was built.
Another great hike was from Ravello back down to Amalfi. Again, take the bus up but follow the paths through the hills and enjoy the sumptuous views and local gardens on the way down. There are a couple of tourist offices in Ravello that provide (free) maps of the area and there are numerous trails down, depending on how much time you have. Highly recommended.
Pompeii is a popular destination and must-see. But to truly appreciate the people (and artisans) who lived there, visit the Naples Museoarcheologico - their exhibits hold the best of both Pompeii and Herculaneum. Here you will see "the best of the best" - antiquities that were removed for preservation and posterity - bronzes, mosaics, glass, jewelry, sculpture, etc. Without viewing the museum, the sites are mostly just ruins but are seen with a much wider view after seeing the treasures of the museum.... The people I encountered in Naples were all very helpful - for the most part they enjoy seeing you enjoy their city. Just be careful and don't let your guard down, as in any other large city.
Explore for yourself and have a wonderful, unforgettable journey soaking up this area - ciao !!
Monica |