EASTER CELEBRATIONS AND RITES IN CAMPANIA – SORRENTO & REGION

Treasured traditions of Easter: Processions at the Sorrentine Coast and surroundings.

Easter in Campania is a rich and interesting occasion to visitors for its characteristic processions during the Holy Week. This tradition goes back a long way, to a Christian use during Medieval Times and, in some cases, there are testimonies dating back to the 16th century. Sorrento and the surrounding areas, the isle of Procida, Somma Vesuviana and Acerra are locations where the processions keep their most intense pathos and, at the same time, become important events under a social-cultural approach. The long parades of the hooded-men are followed by a huge crowd which is deeply involved in the symbolic compassion of the Death of Christ representing scenes.

Along the Neapolitan Coast, Sorrento stands out for the perfect organization of two processions on Holy Friday, the white and the black ones. The first, with white hooded men, organized by Santa Monica Confraternity, takes place on the night between Thursday and Friday. The procession heads through the parade behind the Madonna Statue in search of her Son, Jesus.

It is the suggestive prelude to the other procession, organized on Friday evening by the Death and Prayer Confraternity in which both the robes and the dress of the Holy Mother are black, a color representing the painful finding of her Son dead on the cross.

The whole town and the atmosphere all around provoke intense emotions. Now a question everyone would ask: why a town, today considered one of the international capitals of tourism, lives so deeply the drama of Christ on Calvary? The answer is only possible if you have the occasion to follow the processions, as you can understand it is a real proof of faith and deep attachment to traditions. “Oh Lord, remind me I’m a sinner” - this is the real spirit which the hooded-men get ready and cover their faces before processions.

The legend of this rite says that, upon return to the Confraternity, the cappucci (hooded men) were often dampen into the tears of those who worn them.
The voices of Miserere start to practice two months before the rites. They are eager to arrive properly trained with their liturgical carols, enabling them to follow the hooded carrying torches and all other symbols of Christ’s passion: the basin, the jug in which Pilate washed his hands, the bag with the money paid for the betrayal, Peter’s knife with the cut ear, the rooster which reminded Peter the triple denial, the column with ropes by which Christ was tied.

The shields, the thorn crown, the gown and the cane in which Christ was mocked and proclaimed king of Jews, the nails and the pliers for His crucifixion, the lance which raped his heart and finally the big cross with the hanging shroud. All these details, studied with almost maniacal attention, show the real meaning people have been giving to processions since 1586, when the confraternity of St Catello, born at the end of the 13th century, requested to be integrated in the Roman Confraternity “Death and Prayer”. At this group, the black hooded started to parade on the Holy Friday instead of Thursday. In 1600’s new “mysteries” were introduced, because of the Spanish influence ruling the Neapolitan Kingdom: the Spanish viceroys, through Jesuits suggestion, imposed the new model of processions, richer in symbols.

The rite of processions is felt all over the Sorrentine Peninsula: three in Sant’Agnello, seven in Piano di Sorrento, some more in Massa lubrense and Meta di Sorrento. It is interesting noticing that in Piano di Sorrento there are two red processions, and in Vico Equense there is also a violet one.

In Procida, one of the islands of the Gulf of Naples, approximately two thousand people, all dressed with a white robe and violet cape, take part in the procession on Good Friday. The deep pathos and feelings incite young people to work late for many nighst, building the symbols of passion, at entrance halls and front yards of the oldest buildings on the island.
On Thursday, there is the procession of the hooded apostles, organized by the White Congregation. Thousand of tourists follow the long characteristic processions along the village streets.

Four centuries of history highlight the Via Crucis in Somma Vesuviana, organized on the evening of Holy Friday, with a very long parade of approximately a couple thousand people, following the Madonna of Dead Christ. In the little town, at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, the tradition dates back to 1630, once again introduced by the Spaniards.

In Acerra, the procession on Good Friday is really spectacular with its three-thousand torches, lit all around the baron castle, and taken there by black-clothed women. Through the musical notes of the Hymn to Maria Santissima Addolorata, sung by three hundred young female voices, the procession goes around the town. The parade starts in the early afternoon from the main square “Piazza Castello”. People wear typical costumes representing eight scenes of Passion. At the head of the procession, the representation of Christ’s arrival in Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the betrayal, the sentence to death and the crucifixion.

The procession of Acerra, which recalls many people also from the nearby villages, ends up at about 21.00 in the same square: here is performed the scene of Crucifixion with the two Thieves. The confraternity of the Suffrage organized the performance, enriched with new scenes for the first time at the end of the 19th century. The text of the Hymn to Maria is taken from the 12th and 4th scene of the Via Crucis and was composed by Saint Leonardo di Porto Maurizio, while the author of the music is still unknown.

Festival, tradition, deep attachment to roots, Campania still preserves a special attitude in the residents to dramatize feelings linked to penance and death. The processions, the songs and prayers show people’s deep religious faith.

During the Holy week, the long processions represent human wander in the world and the desire to elevate oneself and expiate sin. Throughout the centuries, many traditions have disappeared because the way to be Christian and to live religion has changed. Sorrento and all the mentioned villages have been able to preserve the true involvement to the Holy Week liturgy. The processions have become a moment of aggregation and meditation as well as an important attraction for tourists.

Photo courtesy of www.processioni.com