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The Historic Centre
by Concetta Caccaviello
Between the town walls rest the monuments, churches and the testimonies of antique civilizations; walking through the streets of the historic centre, the antique Greek-Roman structure is still legible, memory represented vividly in via Pietà, via S. Cesareo, via Padre Reginaldo Giuliani and via Tasso.
Along these antique streets, small dim lights aligned on the walls of tuff, reveal the treasures and tell the secrets of the historic centre.
Via Pietà, an antique major decuman, timidly exhibits the Arab-Byzantine decorations of the Veniero Palace and the Correale Palace with its majestic courtyard with majorica tiles of the 1700's.
Along the other decuman - via S. Cesareo - it's possible to admire "Sedile di Porta" and "Dominava", where the nobility of Sorrento reunited; inside the City's coat of arms and those of the local patrician families are portrayed. Its majorica tiled dome dates back to the 1600's.
Continuing along via P.R. Giuliani and via Tasso, the portals of the antique noble homes, designed in Catalan style, appear majestic. It is between these streets that at dawn a scent of bread and sweets just taken out of the oven is diffused; and as the moon slowly gives up its place to the sun, voices are multiplied and mixed with the murmurs, footsteps and the thousand colours of the marketplaces that cheer up the historic centre daily; and then…the odour of the glue and the typical noise of the saws, planes and hammers that pronounce day after day, year after year, the patient and precious work of the teachers of the Sorrentine marquetry, an art born between '700 and '800.
The Cathedral, with its inlaid wooden chorus, the Basilica of Sant'Antonino with its pulpit and the Museo Correale with the Saltovar collection, jealously preserve the memory of the old teachers of marquetry, incomparable artists of wood.
Then there is the Chiostro of San Francesco, splendid medieval monument with 14th century arches, and in the immediate vicinity stands the "Casa Fasulo" where Torquato Tasso, an illustrious Sorrentine poet, found hospitality.
From the centre of the city, continuing along via Correale, you reach the Museo Correale of Terranova, which preserves paintings, porcelains, majorica tiles and an entire section dedicated to marquetry.
The centre of Sorrento is extremely rich, each alley, shop, church and building, has a story to show and tell. Each corner hides a legend to be narrated and findings to be admired just waiting for visitors "greedy" for history and culture, to satisfy.
THE OLD WALLS
The only part of the Greek defensive wall still remaining is
under the road at the Porta Parsano Nuova (new Parsano Gate)
and can be viewed close to the same door. Another ruin of
the Greek wall other than that of the Marina Grande Gate and
very limited in size is the small tract (just over three
metres) of the western end located in via Sopra Le Mura. The
Roman town was built over the Greek one following the same
urban plan with walls of large isodomic blocks. These walls
stood to defend Sorrento through the Middle Ages. Rebuilding
began in 1551 and was only completed in 1561 after the
tragic Turkish invasion.
CHURCH OF THE SERVANTS OF MARY
In Baroque style this church was completed in the XVIII
century. The site of the congregation of the servants of
Maria, it conserves inside a wooden statue of the dead
Christ, by an unknown sculptor which is carried during the
Good Friday procession by confratemity members in black
robes and hoods.
CATHEDRAL
In Romanic style it dates to the XVth century; the side door
is from the same period (1474) and in Renaissance style.
Amongst other things the church houses paintings by artists
from the Neapolitan school of the 1700s, an archibishops
throne in fine marbles (1573) and a wooden marquetry work of
Sorrentine craftsmen of the beginning of the 19th century.
Works of art always made by using the marquetry technique
can be admired in the interior, such as the pictures of the
stations of the Cross or the wooden panels of the main and
side entrance. These are all works of recent young masters
of marquetry art.
CATHEDRAL BELLTOWER - BISHOP’S PALACE
Noteworthy is the belltower’s base from the Romanic era
probably built around the VIth century with various types of
trunks of columns, alternating classic and Byzantine
capitals with a base of statues and every type of marble
fragments. In the two highly raised arches and on the
columns placed at the corners its clearly Byzantine accent
can be noted. This construction is important to the town’s
urban history since the small spaces under the raised arches
and adjoining bend onto Via Pietà at the beginning of the
Bishop’s Palace were used for years for public gatherings
before these were held inside the castle. The upper part of
the tower was either rebuilt or at least greatly reduced to
its present size around the XVth century.
FIFTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE
The only curious examples of local architecture deriving
from the influx of Tuscan experts working in Naples in the
second half of the 1400s are the small building with lodge
in Vico Galantarario, the capitals which can be found in a
Neapolitan staircase in Via S. Arcangelo a Baiano and those
of the Pontano Chapel with the only variation of leaf placed
inside out.
CORREALE PALACE (XIVTH CENTURY)
The facade of this building exhibits valuable acute-arched
mullioned windows in dark tufo in various shapes and designs,
with small arches and lobed rosewindows. There is a
beautiful large window with an overhanging pointed arch
which rests on polystyle piers upheld by corbers and crowned
by Gothic capitals of acanthus leaves, in the keystone of
the arch the coat-of-arms is incised. The portal is
characteristically Neapolitan -a depressed arch with
Durazzesque Catalan patterns and was used from the end of
the 1300s all through the 1400s.
VENIERO PALACE (XIIITH CENTURY)
Despite the alterations which it has undergone over the
centuries, its abandoned state and the fact that all its
windows have been walled over this building is of
exceptional rarity and worth as it represents the late
Byzantine and Arab taste uniquelly drafted in compositive
organic continuity.
The three large arched windows on each floor are surrounded
by wide fillet in grey and yellow tufo, two narrower fillet,
used ad floor markers underline the two rows of windows and
round tiles, like small rose-windows with majolica paterae
in the centre alternate at the apertures with a slightly
raised contour at the base of theplaster. The inlaid tufo
decoration deve- lops a succession of lozenges with the
exception of the central window whose frieze follows a
zig-zag motif.
THE CORREALE HOUSE IN THE TASSO SQUARE
In the main square, once called largo of the castle, exactly
at the corner where Via Pietà begins another Correale Palace
is located. The inscription on the portal’s marble scroll
ornament bears the date 1768 but it is known that as early
as the XVth century a house belonging to this family stood
here and was later totally transformed by the 17th century
reconstruction.
THE CHURCH OF CARMINE (ST. MARY OF CARMELO)
Reconstructed at the end of the 15th century, on the remains
of a previous ancient Church dedicated to the sacred
sorrentine Martyrs, the Church of Carmine has only a single
nave. At the far end there is an ancient impression of Mary,
the Madonna, which is a copy of the Drk skinned Virgin of
the Church dedicated to the same Saint in Naples. Once can
admire paintings of good quality of artists of the 16th and
17th centuries, as well as two artistic gilded wooden bone
containers of Saints which date back to the 16th century.
PORTA SEAT (XVITH CENTURY)
In the corner which Via S. Cesareo forms with the Tasso
Square where the Sorrentine club is now located there once
stood a second Seat called Porta because it was originally
built near the city’s main gate in the area then called
Largo del Castello. After the abolition of the seats it was
first turned into a prison and then a guard-house for the
urban militia and finally a meeting place for the Sorrentine
club.
BASILICA OF ST. ANTONINO
Its origin dates to the XIth century although there was
already an oratory dedicated to St. Antonino here in the
IXth century. The church presents various elements of
plunder such as the column shafts which for their particular
uniformity probably come from the portico of one of the many
Roman villas present in the area. In the crypt, rebuilt in
the 1700s, numerous ex-voto paintings, mainly of sailors can
be observed. Of interest are the XVIIIth century Crib from
the Sammartino school and the southern portail in
Byzantine-Romanic form dating to the IXth century.
THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY OF THE MIRACLES - (S. MARIA DELLE
GRAZIE)
The fifteenth century Church which includes a convent of a
closed order of Dominican Nuns, was founded by the nobile
sorrentine Lady Berardina Donnorso at the end of the 15th
century. The church has a single nave and treasures esteemed
works of southern italian painters who painted in the period
between the end of the 15th and beginning of the 17th
centuries, such as S. Buono, M. Malinconico, P. Caracciolo
and B. Corenzio.
CHURCH AND CLOISTER OF ST. FRANCIS
The monastery’s origin dates to the first half of the VIIIth
century. The cloister’s architecture presents crossed arches
in tufo on two sides of the portico, expressing the style of
the late 1300s and substituted on the other two sides by
round arches on octagonal pilasters.
Various elements of pillage are present as in the three
corner columns reutilized functionally after being taken
from pagan temples. Next to the convent is the church of St.
Francis which dates to the XVIth century. Inside, in the
first of the three chapels on the right a wooden statue
depicting the saint with Christ on the cross can be admired.
It was donated by the Vulcano family in the XVIIth century.
PART OF THE HOUSE OF TASSO
On the right of the road which from the F. S. Gargiulo
Square leads to the Vittoria Square is the entrance to the
Imperial Tramontano which incorporates two rooms left from
the house where Torquato Tasso, author of Jerusalem
Liberated, was born in 1544.
CHURCH OF THE ROSARY, FORMETLY OF SAINT FELICE AND
BACCOLO
Commonly referred to as the St. Rosary it was probably built
under the empire of Constantine the Great (310) over the
remains of an old pagan temple called pantheon. It was
Sorrento’s cathedral from the XIIth to the XVth century.
HOUSE OF CORNELIA TASSO
At number 11 Via S. Nicola is the Fasulo House, once the
Sersale House (noteworthy the ashlar-work portico and pretty
little balcony). Cornelia Tasso, Torquato’s sister and
Marzio Sersale’s wife lived here, and continued to after she
was widowed with her sons Antonino and Alessandro. In July
1577 Torquato escaped from the castle of Ferrara and
embarked at Gaeta to present himself here disguised as the
poet’s messenger later revealing his true identity. He
stayed with his sister until December, then left for Rome.
In the entrance hall is a vault decorated with stems,
military trophies and inscriptions from 1615 in memory of
the poet...
CHURCH OF THE ANNUNCIATION
The origin of this church is antique althiugh the date of
its foundation is not known. It was probably built on the
remains of the temple dedicated to the godess Cybele. From
1391 in this church (which was adjoined to a monastery) the
Agostinian fathers of the congregation of St John in
Carbonara from Naples officiated. The church was conceded by
their request in 1811 to the co-patrons of the Chapels on
condition that they took on all maintenance expenses. They,
in turn, granted definitely to the lay congregation of St
Monica in 1854.
DOMINOVA SEAT
This the only remaining testimony in Campania of the old
noble seats and dates to the WXIth century.
It has a quadrilateral form with two corner arches in
piperno (lava) permitting the view of the interior of the
cupola and the end walls with 18th century frescoes. The
pilasters and polystyle arches with their capotals are in
archaic style.
The 17th century cupola is formed by green and yellow
majolica roof-tiles. |